Sailor Moon Wig Tutorial: part three

Here we are, finally with the last part of this super long wig tutorial! Yay! (Here’s part one and two if you haven’t read those yet.)

(The wig was on slightly sideways, so you can't see the other bun! D:)

Now that our buns are on the wig, it’s starting to really look like a sailor moon wig!

The list of materials I gave you in the first part of the tutorial was just for the making of the wig. Here’s what you’ll need for the hair pins:

Sculpey

A shot glass or any round object you can use to shape the clay for the pins

Latex mold making kit (or if you have anything else on you for making a small mold, that works too, but you want it to be a mold that lasts)

Mold release

Screws

Red and white paint (use the red that closest matches the picture you’re going off of for the hair pins)

Mold casting resin

Our next step, if you are making the red and white hair pins yourself, is to.. make the hair pins. Yes.

Take some Sculpey, and sculpt out the shape you want. I think we may have made the white part a bit wide; but it works. I used a shot glass (that I got for my 21st birthday, obviously) to make the outside round shape, as well as the inside circle.

I also used a three inch foam ball so that I could make the back of the hair pins curved to sit just right on the odangos.

I rolled it out just to the right thickness (for the white part, we’re going to add on more for the red part of the pins) with a fondant roller, it has bands on each end that help you get a uniform thickness. Then cut it with your bigger circle for the outside.

Here it is with the outside and inside rings, but it’s a bit flat, so we squished some Sculpey into the bottom of the shot glass (because it was curved) and then put that on top of the middle circle.

Blend that into the clay, and clean up the lines. Then grab your foam ball, and gently shape the clay to it, so that it lies flush against the ball.

Then find something that has the same type of curve as the ball (we used a tablespoon, and the clay wasn’t so soft that it lost its curve) and bake it in your oven as per the instructions for baking Sculpey.

Then coat 8-12 layers of a latex mold maker, making sure to let each layer dry before you put on the next one, and make sure to put an inch or so of flashing around it as well (and make sure to put it on something it won’t stick to, like aluminum foil). You can speed up the drying with a blow dryer, we just slowly added layers over a few days.

Once it’s fully cured and you’re comfortable with the thickness, flip it over and use something to support it (we used a glass) and make sure to put a releasing agent on the back of the clay and the latex. We used Mold Release, from Alumilite.

Then, mix and pour a two part casting resin onto the back of the sculpt to make a two part squish mold.

When it’s cured, you should have something like this. We used clay to support the latex mold, and the part next to it is what we’re going to put down into the mold while we’re casting to make sure that the back of it is curved so that it will sit correctly on the buns.

Drill a hole through the back half of the squish mold, and insert a screw, making sure the head of the screw is going to go into the mold to be cast. Make it stick out only enough to be submersed in the mold, if it’s too long the positive won’t turn out right. We put some clay on the other part of the screw to keep the casting resin from seeping through.

Fill the mold with the two part mold resin about 3/4 of the way, then press the back half of the mold into the resin.

Let it cure, and you should come out with something like this:

A little messy, yes, but just clean it up and shape it with some sanding paper, and you’re good to go. Paint it with a primer, then start painting it white all over.

When the white is nice and even, go in with a small brush and your red paint, and very carefully paint the red part.

We also added Krylon spray gloss to make them all shiny. Now you’re going to have to take a hacksaw and cut through the screws to make them a bit shorter, about half way or shorter, because you are going to bump into the stubs inside the odangos if you don’t, and the screw won’t fit all the way through. I guess if you don’t have a hacksaw, use shorter screws, maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inch.

Figure out your positioning, and then push them right in. Once they’re perfect, go ahead and pull them out a little bit, and stick some hot glue in there, to make sure they hold.

Now we’re going to cut and curl the bangs, and if you want to curl the hair at the side of the wig as well, this is the time to do it. (In the picture above, the bangs are already cut, and the sides curled.)

I’m not going to lie, the bangs on this wig were a pain in the neck to curl, and the same for the hair on the sides. I’m not sure if it was just this wig, or what, but I’ve never had such problem styling a wig. With that said, I really think it may have just been this wig, it seemed a bit lower quality or more quickly made than the one of the same style I had before.

First, cut the bangs. Use a very sharp pair of scissors (but be careful, please, I cut part of my finger doing this, and still can’t feel the sides of said finger even though the cut is healed) and cut straight across to get the right length you’re looking for, then cut up into the bangs, for the first 1/4 inch or so , to get a more razored look, that it’s just straight across. Then grab a curling iron (I promise all the wigs from Arda-Wigs are heat styleable, but if your wig isn’t, use curlers and Got2B hairspray instead) on high heat and separate the bangs into four parts; the right and left side, and then the top and bottom of each. Carefully curl each part, and then spray with the hairspray.

Now, if you have a spiral curling iron, it will come in handy for the side hair. Take a small section at a time (I did four sections) and use the spiral iron on it.

Once again, if you don’t have one or if you wig can not take heat, use a very small curler and lots of hairspray, as shown above. My wig was not taking any of that, and the curler was a bit large anyway, so I stuck to the spiral iron.

(A marker will also work if you don’t have small curlers on hand, and if you’re patient enough to hold it/put a hair dryer on it until it dries. I was not.)

Wrap that hair around, then be sure to put the curling iron straight up so that the curls sit right. I didn’t grab a picture of that part, so here’s one of it sideways. Not the right way to do it.

You may have to run the iron through it a few times, but it should curl eventually. Make sure to blast it with hairspray so that it sticks.

And you’re done! Hooray! (Please don’t mind the floor, that is the usual “I just got done styling a wig and stuff is all over the place” floor… and table. Don’t judge.)

As an added bonus, I’ll show you how I pack (and will pack) all of my styled commission wigs that have complex styles:

Pinned firmly to a wig head , with bubble wrap around and on top of, and I gently shake the box and add newspaper and tissue paper in there until the wig doesn’t move when I shake it anymore.

And, it comes with a how to care for your wig paper! Yay!

(I would really love to have more wig commissions, and I like to work with budgets to make any costume possible, so please contact me!)

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5 thoughts on “Sailor Moon Wig Tutorial: part three

  1. Pingback: Sailor Moon wig tutorial, Part two! | Arms, Armor and Awesome

  2. If you have a clothing steamer you can set your wigs on rollers and then steam the hair. It will hold the curl forever! Just practice it first before you do it on an important wig.

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