Ok, we left off with the shaping and carving of the armor.
This picture has them side by side where you can notice a few minor flaws in the shape between them. When you create any two items its almost impossible to get them the exact same and be mirror images for each shoulder. I have never had any one tell me the shoulders I first created for my Tier 8 priest set were off, but they had huge differences between them.
Once the shoulder is shaped and you’re happy with it, its time to get a shoulder hole so you can wear these things. I started off with the measurements that I was provided and drew out the dimensions on the inside of the shoulder.
You can see the sharpie marks on the inside of the shoulder where I outlined the area I would be removing. Because this is on the inside of the shoulder, perfection isn’t needed but go slow. The last thing you want is to put a razor blade through the shoulder and mess up all your hard work. I used my multi-tool to remove most of the foam, a hotknife or exacto would work just as well.
Remember, you can always remove more, but putting it back on is tough.
After you have cleaned out the area where your shoulder will be, make sure to test fit often. Use a mirror to make sure it sits right on you. If you go a bit large don’t worry, you can add some foam to help both with comfort and fit.
OK, all done at this point, I failed to take a picture before I sanded them out, but in a picture I doubt you would see much of a difference. Because of the density of the foam it sands very well. I used 220 grit to finish out the surface and prep it for paint. There are a few cut and nicks that will need to be taken care of and I have just the stuff to do it with.
If you cant read the label it says “Liquitex : Light Modeling Paste” This stuff is fantastic for helping add back a little bit of material where you may have nicked the foam when you were working with it. A single layer will dry in a few hours, expect 4-6 hours per 1/4 inch of thickness. Once this stuff is dry it’s a little rubbery but sands very well. Once again go over the shoulder and re-smooth them with a very light grit sand paper once the paste is dry.
Now that the shoulders are shaped and sanded we can look at paint. If you are planning on a dark high pigment paint, or covering them with either Wonderflex or craft foam, feel free to skip over this next part.
Because the pink of the foam will throw off most paints I opted to cover the entire shoulder with 2 coats of Gesso. This is used a canvas primer by artists and help provide a totally neutral white background.
This is going to be a good stopping point for most people. Part 3 will carry on with another shoulder I will be making because the two in the pictures you have seen are headed off to their new owner who will do the finish work.
If you have any questions on the tips or techniques I used here please comment on this post.